Well, I knew already at the beginning of the year that this was going to be a different year in terms of vacations; the girls had asked "no motorcycling boot-camp this year", and since they had been schleping after their husbands for the last 3 years in a row, they had well deserved this break.
So I decided to plan something relaxing, like spending 9 days in two greek islands, let's say, Santorini and Mykonos. Those were two islands that I've always wanted to visit, and this was the opportunity. I went from plan to execution already in March - United Airlines website to use part of my frequent flier miles for the flights, Booking.com for the hotels, and there it was, the vacation was on its way.
Then our good friends from other trips, Shmil and Louiza, decided to participate as well. We welcomed them happilly, this is a couple that we always like to travel with. At the last moment (around 3 weeks before we go on our way), a third couple, Amnon and Etti, asked to join us and were received in the group. Due to price differences, they took the flight to Santorini with Shmil and Louiza one day before us, and set to return half a day after Lily and me did.
The day came, and here we were ready to travel to Santorini.
So I decided to plan something relaxing, like spending 9 days in two greek islands, let's say, Santorini and Mykonos. Those were two islands that I've always wanted to visit, and this was the opportunity. I went from plan to execution already in March - United Airlines website to use part of my frequent flier miles for the flights, Booking.com for the hotels, and there it was, the vacation was on its way.
Then our good friends from other trips, Shmil and Louiza, decided to participate as well. We welcomed them happilly, this is a couple that we always like to travel with. At the last moment (around 3 weeks before we go on our way), a third couple, Amnon and Etti, asked to join us and were received in the group. Due to price differences, they took the flight to Santorini with Shmil and Louiza one day before us, and set to return half a day after Lily and me did.
The day came, and here we were ready to travel to Santorini.
(the view at the Athens airport)
This blog entry works as a trip log; I expect it to provide you not only with the opportunity to participate in our experience, but also some information about Santorini and Mykonos should you ever decide to visit there - and it is definitely worth the visit.
This blog entry works as a trip log; I expect it to provide you not only with the opportunity to participate in our experience, but also some information about Santorini and Mykonos should you ever decide to visit there - and it is definitely worth the visit.
The trip was quite easy, though it started very early, at 5:30 in the morning. In nearly 2 hours we were in Athens, and after some 2 hours of waiting, in the plane for the 45 minutes of the flight to Santorini.
When we arrived at the Santorini airport, there was a van from the Smaragdi hotel waiting for us to take us to the hotel.
The Smaragdi Hotel
This hotel deserves a special chapter in this article. Placed in the Perivolos beach, one of the few flat beaches in Santorini, and 20 minutes from Thira the capitol of the island, we can say that this is a little piece of paradise in the island.
When we arrived at the Santorini airport, there was a van from the Smaragdi hotel waiting for us to take us to the hotel.
The Smaragdi Hotel
This hotel deserves a special chapter in this article. Placed in the Perivolos beach, one of the few flat beaches in Santorini, and 20 minutes from Thira the capitol of the island, we can say that this is a little piece of paradise in the island.
The whole region is very quiet. Perivolos is a nice beach, organized, full of restaurants in its extremes, but there isn't much traffic there, and the center area where the hotel is placed has no movement at all.
The hotel itself, with its small cabins composed of two rooms each, and the swimming pool, bar and reception at one side, was as charming as it could be.
And the team of the hotel, leaded by Maria, went every step of the way to make us have a great vacation there. They caught my heart. This is definitely one of the hotels which I can fully and quietly recommend.
The hotel itself, with its small cabins composed of two rooms each, and the swimming pool, bar and reception at one side, was as charming as it could be.
And the team of the hotel, leaded by Maria, went every step of the way to make us have a great vacation there. They caught my heart. This is definitely one of the hotels which I can fully and quietly recommend.
Perivolos (and its continuation Perissa), as I said, can be easily understood: hotels, beach, restaurants, shops and scooter rental companies. It was a pleasure to walk near the beach most of the evenings, after coming back from our daily programs.
Day 2: Thira
Thira (or Fira) is the capitol of the island. At the first day we travelled to Thira by bus. We took the 9:15 AM bus and half an hour later we were there, already before 10 in the morning. First thing we needed to do is to sit in one of the Terrazzos of the coffee shops there and enjoy the beautiful view from there.
Day 2: Thira
Thira (or Fira) is the capitol of the island. At the first day we travelled to Thira by bus. We took the 9:15 AM bus and half an hour later we were there, already before 10 in the morning. First thing we needed to do is to sit in one of the Terrazzos of the coffee shops there and enjoy the beautiful view from there.
After that, the girls decided to split for doing what they do best: roaming the shops. From our side, Shmil, Amnon and myself decided to walk around and see what we find. We began by walking the center of the old town, where we found lots of tourists, beautiful streets, a gorgeous cathedral, and a nice group of greek music playing in the central plaza.
Somewhere in our walk we heard about the old Thira port. Then we decided to go down to the port. This is the kind of activity that if you decide to do it, you must be decided to enjoy the way, and not looking to the objective of arriving to the port.
The way is actually a steep downhill slope, fit only for pedestrians and horses, going round and round as a serpent from the heights of the city to the port down at the sea. Well, I said horses: you won't miss the horses in the way, and neither the smell of what they leave behind. It takes around half-an-hour to arrive to the port at the bottom, but the way is very beautiful and enjoyable (despite the smell).
The way is actually a steep downhill slope, fit only for pedestrians and horses, going round and round as a serpent from the heights of the city to the port down at the sea. Well, I said horses: you won't miss the horses in the way, and neither the smell of what they leave behind. It takes around half-an-hour to arrive to the port at the bottom, but the way is very beautiful and enjoyable (despite the smell).
Down there, the port is a regular small island port, with a place for small boats and a separate part for small ferries. We drank a coffee (a long one to recover our strength), and decided it was almost time to go up (we had set with the girls to meet back at 14:00 and it was already 13:30). But this time, using the cable cars.
We met the girls and went to find somewhere to have lunch. Just behind the old center there is the modern center, full of small restaurants to eat. We found a place which sold Pita Gyros and Souvlakis for very low prices, and went for it. It was a simple but great meal.
At that point we were already tired and took the bus back to the hotel. At the hotel, some time at the swimming pool, and then some showers, sleep, etc. In the evening we met at 21:00 and went for a dinner in the beach.
At that point we were already tired and took the bus back to the hotel. At the hotel, some time at the swimming pool, and then some showers, sleep, etc. In the evening we met at 21:00 and went for a dinner in the beach.
Day 3: ATV Day
Ok, if we thought in the beginning that we were going there to relax, very soon we understood that Santorini is an island full of attractions, full of places to go, and that it would be a waste of time to stay at the hotel or in the beach. So for the second day we had already decided that we were taking ATVs to see part of the island.
Ok, if we thought in the beginning that we were going there to relax, very soon we understood that Santorini is an island full of attractions, full of places to go, and that it would be a waste of time to stay at the hotel or in the beach. So for the second day we had already decided that we were taking ATVs to see part of the island.
This is the plan we did and followed. We left our hotel in Perivolos with the ATVs at 10:00 AM, and first thing we did was to travel to the direction of Pyrgos and continue uphill to Profitis Ilias, a monastery for the prophet Elias that is in the higher hill in the island. From there we can see the whole island.
From the monastery, we began travelling North. Destination: Oia.
On our way we went through and visited a series of small beaches in the way to Oia. The idea was to see them all and then, on our way back, stop in one of them. We've seen Vourvoulos, Imerovigli, Kouloumbo, Ammoudi, Baxedes.... and after a short visit to Oia we decided to stop at Kouloumbo beach.
On our way we went through and visited a series of small beaches in the way to Oia. The idea was to see them all and then, on our way back, stop in one of them. We've seen Vourvoulos, Imerovigli, Kouloumbo, Ammoudi, Baxedes.... and after a short visit to Oia we decided to stop at Kouloumbo beach.
We returned to Fira around 16:00 for a late lunch, and went back to the hotel to relax. In the night, we went out to Perivolos beach only for eating a desert or an ice-cream.
Day 4: Scooter day
At 9:30 in the morning we got our scooters at the hotel from the rental company. This was our plan:
At 9:30 in the morning we got our scooters at the hotel from the rental company. This was our plan:
We left the hotel at 10:00 and began the trip to the extreme Southwest of the island, to Cape Akrotiri, in order to see the Akrotiri Lighthouse (Faros).
From that point, we moved to Akrotiri, the oldest prehistoric town in Santorini, where excavations are being done. The archaeological site is beautiful.
Next, and still in Akrotiri, we went to see the White Beach (the only beach in Santorini with white (or almost white) sand and the Red Beach - a beach contained by a mountain of red rocks.
We ate our lunch (another Pita Gyros) near the red beach. From there we continued to Kamari Beach. But we decided, on the way, to stop and take a look at Megalohori, Santorini's folkloric town.
Megalohori is a small town, with real citizens living there, which seems away from all the tourism crazyness that goes on in the island.
In the begining the girls went shopping there (how not?) while Shmil and myself went to walk around the town. Later, when the girls decided that it was time to take a walk and see the town, Shmil, Amnon and me just sat down at one taverna there, the Raki Taverna, to drink some Raki and enjoy some kalamata olives.
In the begining the girls went shopping there (how not?) while Shmil and myself went to walk around the town. Later, when the girls decided that it was time to take a walk and see the town, Shmil, Amnon and me just sat down at one taverna there, the Raki Taverna, to drink some Raki and enjoy some kalamata olives.
After 45 minutes, three glasses of Raki, and a package of olives, the girls came back and we continued to Kamari.
Kamari is another flat beach of Santorini. With much more movement than Perivolos or Perissa, it is full of bars and restaurants, and the black sand is full of chairs and umbrellas. It is a delight to walk through the beach walkway.
Kamari is another flat beach of Santorini. With much more movement than Perivolos or Perissa, it is full of bars and restaurants, and the black sand is full of chairs and umbrellas. It is a delight to walk through the beach walkway.
But we were already approaching 18:30, so it was time to go to Thira if we wanted to see the sunset from there (which is considered one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world)
On our way we stopped at Santo Winery, probably the biggest (and richest) winery in the island. They have a huge visitor center for wine tasting and eating, and a shop for their wines. All this at the best possible place in the island, with the best possible view of Santorini's contour and sea. They are specially known for their desert wines. We tasted some desert wines at the shop and bought a bottle to take home with us and one day remember this vacation.
On our way we stopped at Santo Winery, probably the biggest (and richest) winery in the island. They have a huge visitor center for wine tasting and eating, and a shop for their wines. All this at the best possible place in the island, with the best possible view of Santorini's contour and sea. They are specially known for their desert wines. We tasted some desert wines at the shop and bought a bottle to take home with us and one day remember this vacation.
And then: Sunset in Thira. Words cannot describe it. Just take a look at the pictures gallery:
Well, sunset was over, time was 20:30, and it was the moment to find where to dine.Then we remembered that, while in Megalohori, the taverna next to the Raki was announcing that they would have live Greek music that night.
So we took the scooters and back to Megalohori. You can see below that we've had a great night there... and three more glasses of Raki...
So we took the scooters and back to Megalohori. You can see below that we've had a great night there... and three more glasses of Raki...
Day 5: From Santorini to Mykonos
OK, so it happened, the days passed, and it came - the day in which we had to leave that piece of heaven which is Santorini.
We had reservations for the Ferry Boat of 11:00, so at 10:00 we checked out and the hotel car took us to the Athinios Port. We arrived at 10:30, and after half-an-hour, there we were in the boat.
OK, so it happened, the days passed, and it came - the day in which we had to leave that piece of heaven which is Santorini.
We had reservations for the Ferry Boat of 11:00, so at 10:00 we checked out and the hotel car took us to the Athinios Port. We arrived at 10:30, and after half-an-hour, there we were in the boat.
Two hours later we would be arriving at Mykonos. We took a bus from the port to our hotel (Petinaros hotel, at the neighborhood of Petinaro, just uphill from Mykonos Town), got ready in the hotel and went down to Mykonos Town to have lunch and see the place.
We had lunch at a restaurant just at the center of the Mykonos Old Port. From there we took a walk of nearly two hours within Little Venice, the Commercial/Tourism center of Mykonos Town, made of very small walking streets that really do remind Venice a lot.
We continued walking and stopping at the little shops around us until we got to the other side, where we see the Mykonos town windmills. That was the place where we stopped for some coffee, and later walked home to the hotel.
Day 6: Scooter day #1 in Mykonos
Well, following our experience in Santorini, we understood that we would only see all the island with a scooter, so already on our arrival to the hotel in the previous day we ordered three scooters for the following two days.
This was our program for the first day with the Scooter:
Well, following our experience in Santorini, we understood that we would only see all the island with a scooter, so already on our arrival to the hotel in the previous day we ordered three scooters for the following two days.
This was our program for the first day with the Scooter:
So we were planning on doing the Southeastern coast of the island, in general.
We had ordered the scooters for 10:00 in the morning, and until 10:30, nobody appeared. At that moment we decided to cancel our order with the hotel, and went out to find a scooter rental office. We found three of them at a distance of 100m to 300m of the hotel, and closed a deal with one of them. Got the scooters, filled gas, and went for the girls.
We left our hotel at 11:00 approximately, in the direction of Ano Mera. Ano Mera is a typical old and small town of Mykonos. We took our impressions about the town, and mainly the local cathedral and the restaurant plaza there (this was important for later) and continued east.
We had ordered the scooters for 10:00 in the morning, and until 10:30, nobody appeared. At that moment we decided to cancel our order with the hotel, and went out to find a scooter rental office. We found three of them at a distance of 100m to 300m of the hotel, and closed a deal with one of them. Got the scooters, filled gas, and went for the girls.
We left our hotel at 11:00 approximately, in the direction of Ano Mera. Ano Mera is a typical old and small town of Mykonos. We took our impressions about the town, and mainly the local cathedral and the restaurant plaza there (this was important for later) and continued east.
Our next stop was Fokos Beach, approximately in the area of Lia. We actually only took a look at Fokos, because the wind was too strong there and it was impossible to enjoy the sun. A pity, since it is a beautiful and very quiet beach.
I must add that in this area, all the beaches we visited were a result of trial-and-error. We had no information about any of them. We mainly followed the roads until we would either get to a beach, or arrive to a point that the road (if we could call it that way) was impossible for the scooter to travel through, and then go back.
Our next beach was Kalafatis. Another nice beach with a big bar/restaurant that receives large groups of tourists for meals, and chairs and umbrellas at the seashore. We stopped at Kalafatis for around half-an-hour, between a cafe in the bar and some sitting in the sun at the seashore.
Our next beach was Kalafatis. Another nice beach with a big bar/restaurant that receives large groups of tourists for meals, and chairs and umbrellas at the seashore. We stopped at Kalafatis for around half-an-hour, between a cafe in the bar and some sitting in the sun at the seashore.
From Kalafatis we visited (without stopping, again, due to the strong wind) the beaches of Kalo Livadi and Elia, and then pulled North to Ano Mera for lunch. We had a very BIG lunch in one of the restaurants, which we found in the morning to have a big promotion on business lunch for two.
From there we continued to Super Paradise Beach.
Super Paradise is a different concept. Together with Paradise Beach, it was known in the past as a beach of nudists, young people, gays, and everything that you may imagine.
Nowadays, the nudists have gone looking to other places calmer than Super Paradise Beach, and the beach was taken by a big bar and dancing club. The club is just behind the chairs and umbrellas at the seashore, there is constant very loud music, and two girls that dance on a platform.
To tell you the truth, this beach did not impress me much. Even the two gorgeous girls that were dancing seemed to do so with no enthusiasm at all.
Super Paradise is a different concept. Together with Paradise Beach, it was known in the past as a beach of nudists, young people, gays, and everything that you may imagine.
Nowadays, the nudists have gone looking to other places calmer than Super Paradise Beach, and the beach was taken by a big bar and dancing club. The club is just behind the chairs and umbrellas at the seashore, there is constant very loud music, and two girls that dance on a platform.
To tell you the truth, this beach did not impress me much. Even the two gorgeous girls that were dancing seemed to do so with no enthusiasm at all.
We stayed there for nearly one hour (at least there was no wind), until nearly 19:00, and then continued back to the hotel.
There, Amnon and Etti decided they needed some rest for the evening, while Louiza, Shmil, Lily and myself decided to meet at 21:00 and go to Little Venice for dinner. We found in the city a place called "The Souvlaki Story". a typical greek food, fast-food restaurant. They make excellent Souvlaki and Gyros for excellent prices. They also have a two-person portion that is more than worth for the price it costs (25 Euros). We divided the "portion for two" between us four, and it was just fine.
There, Amnon and Etti decided they needed some rest for the evening, while Louiza, Shmil, Lily and myself decided to meet at 21:00 and go to Little Venice for dinner. We found in the city a place called "The Souvlaki Story". a typical greek food, fast-food restaurant. They make excellent Souvlaki and Gyros for excellent prices. They also have a two-person portion that is more than worth for the price it costs (25 Euros). We divided the "portion for two" between us four, and it was just fine.
Day 7: Scooter day #2 in Mykonos
Well, this was our plan for this day:
Well, this was our plan for this day:
We began by travelling North from the hotel.
We passed through Mykonos New Port, then Tagou Beach, Tourlos Beach, Aghios Stephanos, and ended up at the northernmost point of the western shore, Fanari Beach. There we could see the famous Fanari Faros (or in English, Fanari Lighthouse).
From there we continued East and South, and went to visit a beach called Panormos. Panormos is a kind of a VIP beach, very near the Panormos and Aghio Sostis rich towns. There is a new project that just finished being built there, the Panormos Project (final name will be given soon). When we got there, it was open for 3 days, still in beta run, but already with most services like valet parking, bar, restaurant, beautiful toilets, and excellent food and service. The service manager is a Turkish-Israeli called Eyal, who was born in Israel but left as a baby to Turkey.
We stayed about 2.5 hours in Panormos, where we could find sun, shadow, a beautiful seashore, great service, and no wind.
We passed through Mykonos New Port, then Tagou Beach, Tourlos Beach, Aghios Stephanos, and ended up at the northernmost point of the western shore, Fanari Beach. There we could see the famous Fanari Faros (or in English, Fanari Lighthouse).
From there we continued East and South, and went to visit a beach called Panormos. Panormos is a kind of a VIP beach, very near the Panormos and Aghio Sostis rich towns. There is a new project that just finished being built there, the Panormos Project (final name will be given soon). When we got there, it was open for 3 days, still in beta run, but already with most services like valet parking, bar, restaurant, beautiful toilets, and excellent food and service. The service manager is a Turkish-Israeli called Eyal, who was born in Israel but left as a baby to Turkey.
We stayed about 2.5 hours in Panormos, where we could find sun, shadow, a beautiful seashore, great service, and no wind.
Something happened in our way out of Panormos that we lost reference... suddenly we found ourselves again in Ano Mera. So, from there, it was the time to go to visit Paradise Beach.
Just as in Super Paradise, nudists (most of them) are already far out of there. All we found was a group of 4-8 old nudists, probably to old to change their costumes and find another beach. So they seat there at one of the extremes of the beach and nobody bothers them. At the rest of the beach, young people, tourists from all around the world, and clubs - at least two of them (I think three). We were in the biggest one, got our chairs in the seashore, and enjoyed for around two hours. At the background, music from the club and a guy shouting at the microphone with the music. Only when we left we saw that the guy was a Brazilian dancer, that together with another dancer (a gorgeous girl) taught all the people around how to dance that music. In two seconds Louiza and Lily were there in the group dancing, and getting free-shots after every 3-4 songs.
We stayed at the club for around 1 hr more, and then went back to the hotel.
Just as in Super Paradise, nudists (most of them) are already far out of there. All we found was a group of 4-8 old nudists, probably to old to change their costumes and find another beach. So they seat there at one of the extremes of the beach and nobody bothers them. At the rest of the beach, young people, tourists from all around the world, and clubs - at least two of them (I think three). We were in the biggest one, got our chairs in the seashore, and enjoyed for around two hours. At the background, music from the club and a guy shouting at the microphone with the music. Only when we left we saw that the guy was a Brazilian dancer, that together with another dancer (a gorgeous girl) taught all the people around how to dance that music. In two seconds Louiza and Lily were there in the group dancing, and getting free-shots after every 3-4 songs.
We stayed at the club for around 1 hr more, and then went back to the hotel.
In the evening, the three couples went down to Little Venice. So we took Amnon and Etti to meet "The Souvlaki Story". This time each couple divided a double meal. It was perfect! An icecream for completing the experience, and we walked up back to the hotel and went to sleep.
Day 8: Pool and walking day
We began the day by returning the scooters, and then spent some three hours at the swimming pool. After that, we went to rest a little, and met at 19:00 to go down to Little Venice. We walked a little through the small walkways, until we found a restaurant which was suitable to our closing dinner, and we ate happily there.
We went back to the icecream parlour that has seen us quite much in the last days, ate an icecream and went back in the hotel.
We began the day by returning the scooters, and then spent some three hours at the swimming pool. After that, we went to rest a little, and met at 19:00 to go down to Little Venice. We walked a little through the small walkways, until we found a restaurant which was suitable to our closing dinner, and we ate happily there.
We went back to the icecream parlour that has seen us quite much in the last days, ate an icecream and went back in the hotel.
Day 9: The end
Lily and me woke up at 3:30 for travelling to the airport for our flight at 5:30. The other two couples still had 3/4 of a day to go. We traveled back home and arrived around 3PM, very happy but completely exhausted from our "relaxing" vacation. I think I will need a vacation to recover from this one...
Lily and me woke up at 3:30 for travelling to the airport for our flight at 5:30. The other two couples still had 3/4 of a day to go. We traveled back home and arrived around 3PM, very happy but completely exhausted from our "relaxing" vacation. I think I will need a vacation to recover from this one...
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