Introduction
It is 04:30 on the night of July 10th, 2025, and I am at the Ben-Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv, waiting for my Ethiopian Airlines flight to Addis Ababa in Ethiopia, with continuation flight to New Delhi, India, where I expect to begin a once-in-a-lifetime experience: Riding the Himalayas on a motorcycle.
This journey meant to me a triple departure from my long acquired comfort zones. First, India, which I haven't visited since the end of the 90s when I led a project with Indian programmers, and which I thought I would never visit again; then, riding a foreign country in a large group, something that in the last 14 years I prefered not to do - it was more rewarding for me to prepare my own trips than to deal with the whims of each of the 15 participants in the journeys; third, participating on a journey which is at least 60% offroad riding, when I am in principle a road tourer. I did not know how this journey was going to end, but despite all the fears, the thrill was the main feeling in my heart.
Let's return 7 months in time: on December 2024 I decided to join the RideTheHimalayas.com tour of July 14th this year. The decision took into account that my wife couldn’t go out in a vacation with me in July (taking care of our grandchild), so I chose something that she wouldn’t do anyway and promised her we would go together abroad later in the year.
The journey from Manali to Umling La represents one of the most challenging and rewarding motorcycle adventures on Earth. This 14-day expedition takes us through some of the world's highest motorable passes, ancient monasteries, and landscapes so surreal they seem extraterrestrial. At 5,798 meters, Umling La stands as the world's highest motorable pass, making this journey a pilgrimage for every serious motorcycle adventurer.
It is 04:30 on the night of July 10th, 2025, and I am at the Ben-Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv, waiting for my Ethiopian Airlines flight to Addis Ababa in Ethiopia, with continuation flight to New Delhi, India, where I expect to begin a once-in-a-lifetime experience: Riding the Himalayas on a motorcycle.
This journey meant to me a triple departure from my long acquired comfort zones. First, India, which I haven't visited since the end of the 90s when I led a project with Indian programmers, and which I thought I would never visit again; then, riding a foreign country in a large group, something that in the last 14 years I prefered not to do - it was more rewarding for me to prepare my own trips than to deal with the whims of each of the 15 participants in the journeys; third, participating on a journey which is at least 60% offroad riding, when I am in principle a road tourer. I did not know how this journey was going to end, but despite all the fears, the thrill was the main feeling in my heart.
Let's return 7 months in time: on December 2024 I decided to join the RideTheHimalayas.com tour of July 14th this year. The decision took into account that my wife couldn’t go out in a vacation with me in July (taking care of our grandchild), so I chose something that she wouldn’t do anyway and promised her we would go together abroad later in the year.
The journey from Manali to Umling La represents one of the most challenging and rewarding motorcycle adventures on Earth. This 14-day expedition takes us through some of the world's highest motorable passes, ancient monasteries, and landscapes so surreal they seem extraterrestrial. At 5,798 meters, Umling La stands as the world's highest motorable pass, making this journey a pilgrimage for every serious motorcycle adventurer.
Before the motorcycle journey
I decided that I wanted to see a little of Delhi and vicinities before I got to the tour, so on July 11th I was already landing in Delhi. I took this day for resting, and also had to do a last minute hotel change, after I discovered that the hotel I reserved on booking.com did not exist, and the address took me to a different hotel which was some levels worse than the hotel announced there and had my reservation, making it clear that the beautiful hotel in booking.com was a scam. Welcome to India!!!
After resting from the flights in my new hotel, I took July 12th to visit the Red Fort in New Delhi, and then travelled to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. Here are some pictures of the Red Fort (click on any picture to see them in full size):
I decided that I wanted to see a little of Delhi and vicinities before I got to the tour, so on July 11th I was already landing in Delhi. I took this day for resting, and also had to do a last minute hotel change, after I discovered that the hotel I reserved on booking.com did not exist, and the address took me to a different hotel which was some levels worse than the hotel announced there and had my reservation, making it clear that the beautiful hotel in booking.com was a scam. Welcome to India!!!
After resting from the flights in my new hotel, I took July 12th to visit the Red Fort in New Delhi, and then travelled to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. Here are some pictures of the Red Fort (click on any picture to see them in full size):
The fort, also called Lal Qila is a fort built by the emperor Shah Jahan after he decided to move the capital from Agra to Delhi. It has a massive wall separating it from the rest of the city, and inside many buildings where different departments of his government were located. Nowadays, all these buildings were converted into museums that cover different areas of that period. A visit to the place can take between 2 hours, if you don’t go into the museums, to 4 hours if you visit the museums one by one.
From there, as said above, I travelled to Agra and to the Taj Mahal. There are many things to see in Agra, it can be a full day visit, but the Taj Mahal was the one that interested me.
The Taj Mahal was constructed by the same emperor, Shah Jahan, as a monument to the love of his life, his third wife Mumtaz Mahal. His previous two wives, who were part of convenience marriages, are also buried in the compound, near the East and West gates. The great love of his life, however, who died giving birth to their 14th child, is buried in the main mausoleum in the main building.
Here are some pictures of the Taj Mahal.
From there, as said above, I travelled to Agra and to the Taj Mahal. There are many things to see in Agra, it can be a full day visit, but the Taj Mahal was the one that interested me.
The Taj Mahal was constructed by the same emperor, Shah Jahan, as a monument to the love of his life, his third wife Mumtaz Mahal. His previous two wives, who were part of convenience marriages, are also buried in the compound, near the East and West gates. The great love of his life, however, who died giving birth to their 14th child, is buried in the main mausoleum in the main building.
Here are some pictures of the Taj Mahal.
I must say that the Taj Mahal disappointed me a little. Those pictures of that bucolic place with one-two people going around are long gone. Around 10-15 years ago, the government decided that the price was too high for locals to visit it, and created a different price for Indian citizens, very low. As a result, the place is packed with people, there is a lot of noise and movement. At the moment you arrive to the parking lot with a taxi, some 20 “tour guides” will attack you and they will not let you by any means say “not interested” and go inside by yourself. They will follow you until you choose one to go with you. Whoever you will choose will not contribute to your knowledge more than you can read about in Wikipedia. Their main interest is to take you to the area of the artisans that make gifts for you to buy and take home, from whom they receive a commission that is probably like what you pay them.
I must also say: the Taj Mahal is 176 Km from New Delhi, and in Indian times this means a trip of approximately 3 hours by car or 3-4 hours by train. So, take this into account when planning your trip.
I woke up late on July 13th and decided to take the afternoon visiting the “largest shopping center in India”. The place is actually a compound of three malls, the DLF Promenade, the DLF Emporium, and the Ambience Mall. All the three are high-level brands malls, where the higher-class of Delhi citizens come to buy, and all the known brands are present in at least one of the buildings. According to my understanding, the DLF Emporium is more sophisticated than the other two (and probably more expensive as well). Anyway, three buildings, three malls, three food plazas, it is worth the visit.
I must also say: the Taj Mahal is 176 Km from New Delhi, and in Indian times this means a trip of approximately 3 hours by car or 3-4 hours by train. So, take this into account when planning your trip.
I woke up late on July 13th and decided to take the afternoon visiting the “largest shopping center in India”. The place is actually a compound of three malls, the DLF Promenade, the DLF Emporium, and the Ambience Mall. All the three are high-level brands malls, where the higher-class of Delhi citizens come to buy, and all the known brands are present in at least one of the buildings. According to my understanding, the DLF Emporium is more sophisticated than the other two (and probably more expensive as well). Anyway, three buildings, three malls, three food plazas, it is worth the visit.
July 14th arrived, and with it, the beginning of our tour. The group met at 12:30 at the Holiday Inn Aerocity in order to receive a first briefing of what the tour is going to be and how it will be conducted, have a first lunch together, and then go into a bus that would take us to Manali, where we would receive the motorcycles.
The group included 18 people: 6 people from Australia, 6 from Ecuador, 5 from the US, and me.
First thing that impressed me when I arrived was that I was given this set of 8 high level identification plastic cards and asked to tie one to each of my luggage items.
The group included 18 people: 6 people from Australia, 6 from Ecuador, 5 from the US, and me.
First thing that impressed me when I arrived was that I was given this set of 8 high level identification plastic cards and asked to tie one to each of my luggage items.
The briefing was thorough, and we were able to understand what to expect of the tour in every aspect: the scenery, the difficulty levels at each part, the quality of accommodations of the different types, and even some things regarding costumes at the different areas that we would pass.
After a very good lunch, some group pictures, etc, at 14:30 we were entering our bus to Manali. Our adventure was finally beginning. We were supposed to arrive in Manali around 3-4 AM in the next day.
During the trip with the bus, after approximately 4 hours, we stopped in the parking lot of a restaurant in the middle of the road. We entered the restaurant and were served a king's dinner. It was definitely one of the best meals I've had in India.
The first feeling of adventure came around 3-4 hours later than that. Suddenly, the bus stopped in the middle of the road, and we were informed that a landslide had blocked the main road to Manali, and there was no way that the bus could continue, since it was too big for travelling the old road, that goes up the mountain and down from the other side. Seven taxis were already waiting for us where the bus stopped, and each of us was directed to one of them with our luggage.
The taxis went out from the main road to the secondary old road, an old mountain road, narrow and full of curves, which kept us awake the rest of the night. It was like going in a rollercoaster ride in the dark. Here is a little video of the trip after the photos.
After a very good lunch, some group pictures, etc, at 14:30 we were entering our bus to Manali. Our adventure was finally beginning. We were supposed to arrive in Manali around 3-4 AM in the next day.
During the trip with the bus, after approximately 4 hours, we stopped in the parking lot of a restaurant in the middle of the road. We entered the restaurant and were served a king's dinner. It was definitely one of the best meals I've had in India.
The first feeling of adventure came around 3-4 hours later than that. Suddenly, the bus stopped in the middle of the road, and we were informed that a landslide had blocked the main road to Manali, and there was no way that the bus could continue, since it was too big for travelling the old road, that goes up the mountain and down from the other side. Seven taxis were already waiting for us where the bus stopped, and each of us was directed to one of them with our luggage.
The taxis went out from the main road to the secondary old road, an old mountain road, narrow and full of curves, which kept us awake the rest of the night. It was like going in a rollercoaster ride in the dark. Here is a little video of the trip after the photos.
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We arrived to Manali around 6:00 in the morning and were received with typical hats and scarfs. I took some pictures, got my room and went directly to sleep. I woke up for lunch, and during lunch was instructed to take another one of my identification plastic cards, choose a motorcycle from the ones parking at the parking lot, and tie my card to the keys of that motorcycle. That’s what I did.
Around 16:00 we went out for a test drive with the motorcycles, at the end of which each of us was supposed to point out every change or fix he/she needed in the motorcycle to the company’s mechanics. Luckily, my bike did not need any changes. Some of them needed things like brakes adjustments, mirrors strengthening, change of tires, etc.
I was ready to begin our adventure in the next morning.
Around 16:00 we went out for a test drive with the motorcycles, at the end of which each of us was supposed to point out every change or fix he/she needed in the motorcycle to the company’s mechanics. Luckily, my bike did not need any changes. Some of them needed things like brakes adjustments, mirrors strengthening, change of tires, etc.
I was ready to begin our adventure in the next morning.
Day 1 – 16/7/2025: Manali to Anni (130 km, 5-6 hours)
At 08:30 exactly, our adventure began at the hotel in Manali. Manali is nestled in the Kullu Valley. The initial stretch through the valley offered us green landscapes, and the gentle Beas River accompanying our ride. This, together with rain and a lot of traffic. The road gradually climbed as we left the valley behind. Roads became narrow and winding, and the traffic did not become less than what it previously was, making the ride quite stressing. We hadn’t expected to find this traffic in the area, but were advised by the organizers that we would meet it. To our group, the company added three riders: a leader, a marshal and a sweeper. At the end, after the sweeper, 4 cars, two of them with our luggage, one with the team of mechanics and logistics, and one truck with a documentation team who would follow us (and sometimes be at the front) and document our group in photos and videos for further advertising of the company.
The highlight of the day was conquering Jalori Pass (3,292 meters), our first taste of high-altitude riding. This scenic pass offered panoramic views of the Kullu and Kinnaur ranges, with prayer flags fluttering in the mountain breeze. The winding road through dense forests of oak and deodar created a mystical atmosphere. Roads were narrow and not really maintained, at least not enough for the traffic they had.
Arriving in Anni, a small village in the Kinnaur Valley, we noticed the dramatic change in landscape and culture. The apple orchards gave way to barren mountains, and Tibetan influence became evident in the architecture and local customs. We slept in a camping area, where tents were already waiting for us and a cuisine staff was waiting for serving us a snack and dinner.
For getting to our camp, we had to do a tight U-turn on the road and then go down with the motorcycles through a tight, steep path down (around 25% inclination) which was fully mud, and then cross a narrow bridge to park the bikes. Some people managed to do it, some didn’t. I was proud to be one of those that did it.
The highlight of the day was conquering Jalori Pass (3,292 meters), our first taste of high-altitude riding. This scenic pass offered panoramic views of the Kullu and Kinnaur ranges, with prayer flags fluttering in the mountain breeze. The winding road through dense forests of oak and deodar created a mystical atmosphere. Roads were narrow and not really maintained, at least not enough for the traffic they had.
Arriving in Anni, a small village in the Kinnaur Valley, we noticed the dramatic change in landscape and culture. The apple orchards gave way to barren mountains, and Tibetan influence became evident in the architecture and local customs. We slept in a camping area, where tents were already waiting for us and a cuisine staff was waiting for serving us a snack and dinner.
For getting to our camp, we had to do a tight U-turn on the road and then go down with the motorcycles through a tight, steep path down (around 25% inclination) which was fully mud, and then cross a narrow bridge to park the bikes. Some people managed to do it, some didn’t. I was proud to be one of those that did it.
Day 2 – 17/7/2025: Ani to Kalpa (80 km, 4-5 hours)
After a difficult night in which I slept only 2 hours, I understood that my biggest challenge in this trip will be sleeping on tents, which don’t have electricity for me to connect my CPAP machine.
On this day, the organizers set the standard for our days: waking up at 7:00, breakfast at 7:30, leaving the place at 8:30. They did not wait for us to take the bikes up through that muddy path, when we ended breakfast, the bikes were already up on the road waiting for us.
The morning ride took us deeper into the Kinnaur Valley, one of India's most picturesque regions. The road hugged the Sutlej River, offering spectacular views of the Kinnaur Kailash range. The landscape transformed little by little from green valleys to dramatic gorges and high peaks.
Near Kalpa, we stopped on a place that the company staff called “Suicide Point”. At first I thought they were joking, but it was enough to search Google Maps for “Suicide Point Kalpa” to see that the place is marked on the map exactly under this name. And, to tell you the truth, any point of this road would make the perfect suicide point... for whoever is looking forward to it.
Our destination, Kalpa, provided stunning views of the Kinnaur Kailash peak. I didn’t know the name of the peak, and had to look for it on the Internet to find it. It was on the top of a hill. These villages showcase traditional architecture with slate-roofed houses and intricate wood carvings. The Buddhist and Hindu influences blend seamlessly there, creating a unique cultural tapestry. We had a nice hotel in Kalpa, a surprise since we were expecting Fixed Swiss Tents.
On this day, the organizers set the standard for our days: waking up at 7:00, breakfast at 7:30, leaving the place at 8:30. They did not wait for us to take the bikes up through that muddy path, when we ended breakfast, the bikes were already up on the road waiting for us.
The morning ride took us deeper into the Kinnaur Valley, one of India's most picturesque regions. The road hugged the Sutlej River, offering spectacular views of the Kinnaur Kailash range. The landscape transformed little by little from green valleys to dramatic gorges and high peaks.
Near Kalpa, we stopped on a place that the company staff called “Suicide Point”. At first I thought they were joking, but it was enough to search Google Maps for “Suicide Point Kalpa” to see that the place is marked on the map exactly under this name. And, to tell you the truth, any point of this road would make the perfect suicide point... for whoever is looking forward to it.
Our destination, Kalpa, provided stunning views of the Kinnaur Kailash peak. I didn’t know the name of the peak, and had to look for it on the Internet to find it. It was on the top of a hill. These villages showcase traditional architecture with slate-roofed houses and intricate wood carvings. The Buddhist and Hindu influences blend seamlessly there, creating a unique cultural tapestry. We had a nice hotel in Kalpa, a surprise since we were expecting Fixed Swiss Tents.
Day 3 – 18/07/2025: Kalpa to Nako (120 km, 6-7 hours)
At 7:30 we were ready at the breakfast tent, where the chef had prepared a great Indian breakfast for us, which was well enjoyed. At 8:30, we went to the bikes and prepared for the riding day.
Today's ride crossed the boundary into Spiti Valley territory, marking a significant cultural and geographical shift.
The road became increasingly challenging as we entered deeper into Spiti Valley, often called "Little Tibet." The landscape turned stark and beautiful, with barren mountains in shades of brown, ochre, and purple.
Still in Kalpa, we were delayed by an hour and a half in order to get the permits necessary to traffic in the county. At this time we were able to visit the center of the village.
However, as we got nearer to Nako, road conditions began to become very challenging, as they would be until the end of our visit to Spiti Valley. Nako, perched beside a high-altitude lake, offered a serene end to a hard riding day.
Our hotel in Nako was good and comfortable, and I was happy to be again in a hotel with electricity to charge all my devices (phone, two cameras, bluetooth mic) and to sleep again a full night with the help of my CPAP device.
Here are some pictures and videos that show the happenings of this day.
Today's ride crossed the boundary into Spiti Valley territory, marking a significant cultural and geographical shift.
The road became increasingly challenging as we entered deeper into Spiti Valley, often called "Little Tibet." The landscape turned stark and beautiful, with barren mountains in shades of brown, ochre, and purple.
Still in Kalpa, we were delayed by an hour and a half in order to get the permits necessary to traffic in the county. At this time we were able to visit the center of the village.
However, as we got nearer to Nako, road conditions began to become very challenging, as they would be until the end of our visit to Spiti Valley. Nako, perched beside a high-altitude lake, offered a serene end to a hard riding day.
Our hotel in Nako was good and comfortable, and I was happy to be again in a hotel with electricity to charge all my devices (phone, two cameras, bluetooth mic) and to sleep again a full night with the help of my CPAP device.
Here are some pictures and videos that show the happenings of this day.
Day 4 – 19/07/2025: Nako to Mud (90 km, 5-6 hours)
As usually, we left Nako at 8:30. The ride continued through the heart of the Spiti Valley, passing through villages that seemed frozen in time.
And then... a landslide blocked our way. The army brought tractors from both sides of the landslide, to free the road as soon as possible, but also this way, the expected wait was around 3-3.5 hours. And then... the coolant pipe at the tractor on our side broke and it was made unusable. It took around one hour for a replacement pipe to be brought and replaced at the tractor's engine. At the end, we waited around 4.5 hours in a cafe in the area, waiting for the heavy machinery brought by the road maintenance to reopen the road. When it was already enough for the motorcycles to pass, the whole group passed through.
We continued with a visit to Giu Monastery, famous for its naturally mummified monk - a 500-year-old preserved body that draws pilgrims and curious travelers alike. The legend tells that the mummified body of the monk was found, and after tests were done, they uncovered the fact that no conservation materials were use in the mummy. They also noticed that his hair and nails were still growing. Their conclusion was that the monk was not dead; in the last 500 years he has been in a state of deep meditation. Believe it if you want and can, but the idea is charming...
The landscape became increasingly dramatic as we approached our destination, which we thought to be Mud, the last village accessible by road in the Pin Valley. We found our camping, had dinner and went to sleep.
Here are some pictures of the day and the video about the moment we finally passed the landslide barrier:
And then... a landslide blocked our way. The army brought tractors from both sides of the landslide, to free the road as soon as possible, but also this way, the expected wait was around 3-3.5 hours. And then... the coolant pipe at the tractor on our side broke and it was made unusable. It took around one hour for a replacement pipe to be brought and replaced at the tractor's engine. At the end, we waited around 4.5 hours in a cafe in the area, waiting for the heavy machinery brought by the road maintenance to reopen the road. When it was already enough for the motorcycles to pass, the whole group passed through.
We continued with a visit to Giu Monastery, famous for its naturally mummified monk - a 500-year-old preserved body that draws pilgrims and curious travelers alike. The legend tells that the mummified body of the monk was found, and after tests were done, they uncovered the fact that no conservation materials were use in the mummy. They also noticed that his hair and nails were still growing. Their conclusion was that the monk was not dead; in the last 500 years he has been in a state of deep meditation. Believe it if you want and can, but the idea is charming...
The landscape became increasingly dramatic as we approached our destination, which we thought to be Mud, the last village accessible by road in the Pin Valley. We found our camping, had dinner and went to sleep.
Here are some pictures of the day and the video about the moment we finally passed the landslide barrier:
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Day 5 – 20/07/2025: Mud to Kaza via Komic Village (60 km, 4-5 hours)
It was only in the next morning that we understood that we were NOT in Mud, and that when they heard about the landslide and the four hours that we lost there, the camping team just dismounted all the camp and mounted it again in a place closer to us, in order to avoid the need to have us riding at night. If someone was still not sure of their efficiency and proactivity, this was the final proof.
Today's shorter distance allowed for exploration and acclimatization. The route took us from our camp, marked on the map, through Komic Village (or Koumik, as it appears on the map), one of the world's highest villages with a motor road, sitting at 4,587 meters. There we sat for a delicious tea at “The highest restaurant in the world” and also made a visit to “The highest post office in the world”, from where I sent a postcard home. I am already at home and still waiting for this postcard to arrive, and I will update this article on the day it arrives, IF it does. I’ve heard my American friends in the group have already begun receiving theirs... well, probably mine will get stuck in the Israeli mail service.
During this day, the first toughts about the size of what I was seeing began coming through my mind. It was interesting that despite the fact we were all the time climbing in altitude, we were all the time travelling in valleys, with mountains around us. Somehow, as we climbed from valley to valley, the mountains climbed together with us. This began giving me an idea of the size and the strength of the mountains, and how small I was comparing to this all...
Kaza, the administrative center of Spiti, provided modern amenities after days in remote villages. It was very entertaining to visit the city center and look around at the shops – except for a sudden monsoon rain that got our people wet from head to toes.
Here are the pictures of this day, one of the most interesting days until now.
Today's shorter distance allowed for exploration and acclimatization. The route took us from our camp, marked on the map, through Komic Village (or Koumik, as it appears on the map), one of the world's highest villages with a motor road, sitting at 4,587 meters. There we sat for a delicious tea at “The highest restaurant in the world” and also made a visit to “The highest post office in the world”, from where I sent a postcard home. I am already at home and still waiting for this postcard to arrive, and I will update this article on the day it arrives, IF it does. I’ve heard my American friends in the group have already begun receiving theirs... well, probably mine will get stuck in the Israeli mail service.
During this day, the first toughts about the size of what I was seeing began coming through my mind. It was interesting that despite the fact we were all the time climbing in altitude, we were all the time travelling in valleys, with mountains around us. Somehow, as we climbed from valley to valley, the mountains climbed together with us. This began giving me an idea of the size and the strength of the mountains, and how small I was comparing to this all...
Kaza, the administrative center of Spiti, provided modern amenities after days in remote villages. It was very entertaining to visit the city center and look around at the shops – except for a sudden monsoon rain that got our people wet from head to toes.
Here are the pictures of this day, one of the most interesting days until now.
Day 6 – 21/07/2025: Kaza to Moon Lake (140 km, 7-8 hours)
This was one of the most challenging yet rewarding days of our journey. The route began with the ascent to Kunzum Pass (4,551 meters), where we’ve found the Kunzum Mata Temple. Locals believe the goddess protects travellers, and stopping there for blessings is considered essential.
Before that, we visited the “Old Aged Home Spiti Kee”, a home for the elderly people in the area that is handled by charity. Ride the Himalayas brought a truckload of food to donate there in our name. I don’t know exactly how much we had there, but according to the size and quantity of the sacs, I believe we had between 90-100 Kg of food. In retribution, the old lady that managed the place gave a blessing to each one of us.
We also visited the Key (or Kee) Monastery before getting to Komic, perched dramatically on a hilltop, which serves as the spiritual heart of Spiti. This 1,000-year-old monastery houses around 300 monks and contains rare manuscripts, ancient musical instruments, and Buddha statues. The monastery's fortress-like appearance against the stark landscape creates an unforgettable image. Inside the monastery, meditation caves serve the monks to guarantee their solitude.
The temple is built around a natural rock formation. Prayer flags flutter against the stark blue sky, creating a spiritual atmosphere at this high altitude.
Moon Lake (Chandratal), our destination, sits at 4,300 meters and is considered one of the most beautiful high-altitude lakes in the Himalayas. The crescent-shaped lake reflects the surrounding peaks, creating an almost surreal landscape. Camping here under star-filled skies provides an unforgettable experience.
The road was very challenging, I had the feeling that I had been put inside a kitchen blender, and it was activated. Many people felt like me. At the end of the day, around 16:00, we arrived at our camp in Moon Lake. Part of the group decided to go and visit the lake, while part of the group (the lazy ones – including me) stayed at the camp to rest. As it usually happened in the camps or Swiss Tents (Glamping) days, there was not much to do after dinner, which happened everyday at 19:30, so around 21:00 I was already in bed trying to sleep until the next morning.
Here are some pictures of this beautiful day.
Before that, we visited the “Old Aged Home Spiti Kee”, a home for the elderly people in the area that is handled by charity. Ride the Himalayas brought a truckload of food to donate there in our name. I don’t know exactly how much we had there, but according to the size and quantity of the sacs, I believe we had between 90-100 Kg of food. In retribution, the old lady that managed the place gave a blessing to each one of us.
We also visited the Key (or Kee) Monastery before getting to Komic, perched dramatically on a hilltop, which serves as the spiritual heart of Spiti. This 1,000-year-old monastery houses around 300 monks and contains rare manuscripts, ancient musical instruments, and Buddha statues. The monastery's fortress-like appearance against the stark landscape creates an unforgettable image. Inside the monastery, meditation caves serve the monks to guarantee their solitude.
The temple is built around a natural rock formation. Prayer flags flutter against the stark blue sky, creating a spiritual atmosphere at this high altitude.
Moon Lake (Chandratal), our destination, sits at 4,300 meters and is considered one of the most beautiful high-altitude lakes in the Himalayas. The crescent-shaped lake reflects the surrounding peaks, creating an almost surreal landscape. Camping here under star-filled skies provides an unforgettable experience.
The road was very challenging, I had the feeling that I had been put inside a kitchen blender, and it was activated. Many people felt like me. At the end of the day, around 16:00, we arrived at our camp in Moon Lake. Part of the group decided to go and visit the lake, while part of the group (the lazy ones – including me) stayed at the camp to rest. As it usually happened in the camps or Swiss Tents (Glamping) days, there was not much to do after dinner, which happened everyday at 19:30, so around 21:00 I was already in bed trying to sleep until the next morning.
Here are some pictures of this beautiful day.
Day 7 – 22/07/2025: Moon Lake to Sissu (84 km, 3-4 hours)
This was a short day, but a very beautiful one.
The short but scenic ride to Sissu allowed us to fix in our minds the high-altitude landscape before descending into the Lahaul Valley. The route offers spectacular views of glaciated peaks and the gradual change from the stark Spiti landscape to the greener Lahaul region.
Sissu, located in the Lahaul Valley, provides a welcome change with its flowing streams. The village is famous for its waterfall and serves as a base for various trekking expeditions. The Lahaul Valley culture blends Tibetan and Indian influences, reflected in the local architecture and customs.
We arrived quite early to our hotel in Sissu and went for a rest. As usual, snacks were served at 16:30 and dinner at 19:30. I don’t remember exactly at what time I went to sleep, but I believe that after the sleepless night in the Swiss Tents at Moonlake, probably at 21:00 I was already in bed.
One nice video of the day below. We had some rain on the way, and a lot of switchback curves. Along the mountains, this forms a very beautiful view. But we haven't had anything on this day that I have decided that was worth taking pictures of.
The short but scenic ride to Sissu allowed us to fix in our minds the high-altitude landscape before descending into the Lahaul Valley. The route offers spectacular views of glaciated peaks and the gradual change from the stark Spiti landscape to the greener Lahaul region.
Sissu, located in the Lahaul Valley, provides a welcome change with its flowing streams. The village is famous for its waterfall and serves as a base for various trekking expeditions. The Lahaul Valley culture blends Tibetan and Indian influences, reflected in the local architecture and customs.
We arrived quite early to our hotel in Sissu and went for a rest. As usual, snacks were served at 16:30 and dinner at 19:30. I don’t remember exactly at what time I went to sleep, but I believe that after the sleepless night in the Swiss Tents at Moonlake, probably at 21:00 I was already in bed.
One nice video of the day below. We had some rain on the way, and a lot of switchback curves. Along the mountains, this forms a very beautiful view. But we haven't had anything on this day that I have decided that was worth taking pictures of.
Day 8 – 23/07/2025: Sissu to Sarchu (90 km, 5-6 hours)
Today we had again a short day, in term of kilometers, but a long day in terms of time. The 90 Km we needed to do involved crossing Baralacha La Pass (4,890 meters), a major milestone in our journey. This pass connects the Lahaul and Ladakh regions and offers spectacular views of the Chandrabhaga and Bhaga river valleys. The landscape became increasingly barren and moon-like as we approached the pass. We went up the pass from the Lahaul side, and downhill at the Ladakh side.
We sat to eat lunch at a very interesting restaurant which was like a big tent with beds - food was very good, and we had some time to rest from the trip.
Sarchu, sitting in the Sarchu Valley at 4,290 meters, serves as a major camping ground for Leh-bound travellers. This high-altitude desert plateau experiences extreme weather conditions, with temperatures dropping significantly at night even in summer. The valley's stark beauty, surrounded by multi-coloured mountains, creates an otherworldly atmosphere. It is used mainly because the distance between Sissu and Leh, around 350 Km, is too big to be done in one day due to the road conditions.
We had Swiss Tents again in Sarchu, since the place has almost nothing.
Some pictures of the day:
We sat to eat lunch at a very interesting restaurant which was like a big tent with beds - food was very good, and we had some time to rest from the trip.
Sarchu, sitting in the Sarchu Valley at 4,290 meters, serves as a major camping ground for Leh-bound travellers. This high-altitude desert plateau experiences extreme weather conditions, with temperatures dropping significantly at night even in summer. The valley's stark beauty, surrounded by multi-coloured mountains, creates an otherworldly atmosphere. It is used mainly because the distance between Sissu and Leh, around 350 Km, is too big to be done in one day due to the road conditions.
We had Swiss Tents again in Sarchu, since the place has almost nothing.
Some pictures of the day:
Day 9 – 24/07/2025: Sarchu to Leh (250 km, 10-12 hours)
This was the longest and most challenging day of our journey, at least until now – around 9 hours of riding which involved crossing multiple high-altitude passes.
We crossed Nakela Pass (4,739 meters) which provided stunning views of the Ladakh range before the final descent into the Ladakh Valley.
The route then tackled Lachung La (5,065 meters), followed by the formidable Tanglang La Pass (5,359 meters) - the second-highest motorable pass in the world at the time of this journey, and 12th highest mountain pass in the world, if we consider all the passes, and not only the motorable. Considering that in the past the highest place I had ever been was Ticlio, near Lima, Peru, with its 4,190 meters, on this day I broke all my previous records of altitude.
The landscape transformed dramatically as we approached Leh, with the Indus Valley's green oasis appearing like a mirage after hours of barren terrain.
Leh, the ancient capital of Ladakh, welcomed us with its architecture, bustling bazaars, and the majestic Leh Palace overlooking the city. The city's strategic location on the ancient Silk Route is evident in its multicultural atmosphere. The city has a very nice main commercial road, an even nicer main market (or bazaar), and from the top of a mountain just besides our hotel, a fortress stood strong guarding the whole city.
I must admit that 250 Km sitting on a Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 on that road, which despite being paved was a very difficult ride, left me with a sour butt, and I had to rest. So, knowing that we had the next day as a free day to visit the city, I decided not to go out and to spend the night at the hotel.
Here are the pictures of the long day to Leh.
We crossed Nakela Pass (4,739 meters) which provided stunning views of the Ladakh range before the final descent into the Ladakh Valley.
The route then tackled Lachung La (5,065 meters), followed by the formidable Tanglang La Pass (5,359 meters) - the second-highest motorable pass in the world at the time of this journey, and 12th highest mountain pass in the world, if we consider all the passes, and not only the motorable. Considering that in the past the highest place I had ever been was Ticlio, near Lima, Peru, with its 4,190 meters, on this day I broke all my previous records of altitude.
The landscape transformed dramatically as we approached Leh, with the Indus Valley's green oasis appearing like a mirage after hours of barren terrain.
Leh, the ancient capital of Ladakh, welcomed us with its architecture, bustling bazaars, and the majestic Leh Palace overlooking the city. The city's strategic location on the ancient Silk Route is evident in its multicultural atmosphere. The city has a very nice main commercial road, an even nicer main market (or bazaar), and from the top of a mountain just besides our hotel, a fortress stood strong guarding the whole city.
I must admit that 250 Km sitting on a Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 on that road, which despite being paved was a very difficult ride, left me with a sour butt, and I had to rest. So, knowing that we had the next day as a free day to visit the city, I decided not to go out and to spend the night at the hotel.
Here are the pictures of the long day to Leh.
Day 10 – 25/07/2025: Rest Day in Leh
After nine intense days of mainly off-road riding, a rest day in Leh was essential for both physical recovery and motorcycle exchange. I will explain: there is a law in the Ladakh region that tries to protect the local businesses, since the tourism period is too short. According to this law, a series of things are forbidden in the whole county: one of them is riding rental bikes that are not from Ladakh. So, the company had to send our bikes back to Manali and rent us new bikes from a business in Leh. Weird? Yes, definitely. But do you want something even weirder than that? Here you are: all international roaming to SIM cards or eSIMs for India don’t work in Ladakh. If you want cellular reception, you need to buy a local SIM. Difficult to understand, but this is how it works there.
At breakfast, we set a group of friends who wanted to hike up to the Leh Castle, led by our friend Paul, which had already been there. This was a beautiful walk. You will be able to see the pictures below. Upon return, part of the group went to the street market (main bazaar), while I stayed looking at the shops at the commercial road, and later returned to the hotel. At night, after dinner, we all went to sleep early, since we knew that in the next day we would be another day of 255 Km from Leh to Hanle.
At breakfast, we set a group of friends who wanted to hike up to the Leh Castle, led by our friend Paul, which had already been there. This was a beautiful walk. You will be able to see the pictures below. Upon return, part of the group went to the street market (main bazaar), while I stayed looking at the shops at the commercial road, and later returned to the hotel. At night, after dinner, we all went to sleep early, since we knew that in the next day we would be another day of 255 Km from Leh to Hanle.
Day 11 – 26/07/2025: Leh to Hanle (255 km, 8-9 hours)
This was the longest day in the trip in terms of riding hours – except for the return day, day 13, in which we did the same road in the reverse direction.
As we got further from Leh and approached Hanle, the landscape became increasingly desertic, desolate and beautiful, with nomadic settlements scattered across the high-altitude desert. At some point we were already in a road in the middle of the desert. At that point, I remembered my thoughts from some of my previous days that we had begun our trip in Manali at 2,050 meters altitude, in a valley with mountains around it, and here we were, in a valley with mountains around it at an altitude of nearly 4,500 meters. It seemed that as the altitude grows, the mountains also grow higher, and during all the trip you are always travelling in valleys. The feeling is that you are riding inside a picture, or a painting... It made me understand a little how small we are in this world, and how the optic illusion of being all the time in valleys makes you forget how much you have climbed in altitude. The world is really something fantastic, and you need such an experience to understand it.
Hanle village, at 4,500 meters, houses the Hanle Gompa, a 400-year-old monastery that serves the scattered Changpa nomad community. The village is also famous for the Indian Astronomical Observatory, taking advantage of the region's clear skies and minimal light pollution. We could see the observatory from the window of our room at the hotel.
Regarding the light pollution, I have to add: every day, hour hotel had electricity from 07:00 in the morning and until we left (I don’t know how much time later on), then a short period of some half-an-hour around 16:00, and then from 19:00 and until 23:00. All other hours – no electric power at all. I am still to know if this happens only because of precarious electrical installations in the city, or if it is for giving the observatory the dark environment that they need.
A group of us decided to go out at 23:30, after the lights are turned off, to explore the sky and take pictures of the stars without flash – using long exposures. We got some interesting pictures. Additionally, one of our friends, Peter, who is a gifted photographer, made some beautiful trials with pictures of some of us on a motorcycle, in which he gave an exposure of 30 seconds, and every 10 seconds he operated a light from a different direction for one second. The results were incredible.
You can see all the highlights of the day (and the night) in the pictures below.
As we got further from Leh and approached Hanle, the landscape became increasingly desertic, desolate and beautiful, with nomadic settlements scattered across the high-altitude desert. At some point we were already in a road in the middle of the desert. At that point, I remembered my thoughts from some of my previous days that we had begun our trip in Manali at 2,050 meters altitude, in a valley with mountains around it, and here we were, in a valley with mountains around it at an altitude of nearly 4,500 meters. It seemed that as the altitude grows, the mountains also grow higher, and during all the trip you are always travelling in valleys. The feeling is that you are riding inside a picture, or a painting... It made me understand a little how small we are in this world, and how the optic illusion of being all the time in valleys makes you forget how much you have climbed in altitude. The world is really something fantastic, and you need such an experience to understand it.
Hanle village, at 4,500 meters, houses the Hanle Gompa, a 400-year-old monastery that serves the scattered Changpa nomad community. The village is also famous for the Indian Astronomical Observatory, taking advantage of the region's clear skies and minimal light pollution. We could see the observatory from the window of our room at the hotel.
Regarding the light pollution, I have to add: every day, hour hotel had electricity from 07:00 in the morning and until we left (I don’t know how much time later on), then a short period of some half-an-hour around 16:00, and then from 19:00 and until 23:00. All other hours – no electric power at all. I am still to know if this happens only because of precarious electrical installations in the city, or if it is for giving the observatory the dark environment that they need.
A group of us decided to go out at 23:30, after the lights are turned off, to explore the sky and take pictures of the stars without flash – using long exposures. We got some interesting pictures. Additionally, one of our friends, Peter, who is a gifted photographer, made some beautiful trials with pictures of some of us on a motorcycle, in which he gave an exposure of 30 seconds, and every 10 seconds he operated a light from a different direction for one second. The results were incredible.
You can see all the highlights of the day (and the night) in the pictures below.
Day 12 – 27/07/2025: Hanle to Umling La and Return (120 km round trip, 6-8 hours)
The ultimate day arrived - our assault on Umling La Pass at 5,798 meters, the world's highest motorable pass. We had been waiting all the trip for this day. The 80-kilometer ride from Hanle to the pass crossed some of the most challenging terrain we can encounter, with no road at all, riding in part in the desert, with sections of sand and others of mud, and other section with very narrow paved road, which is 90% made of hairpins (in other words switchbacks), until we get to the top.
NOTE: The map above is as accurate as I could approximate with freehand drawing. Unfortunately, due to the extense riding in the desert, with no road, neither Google Maps, Bing Maps nor Here Maps could draw for me an exact path.
The landscape at this altitude is truly lunar-like, with oxygen levels at just 50% of sea level. The pass, opened to civilian traffic recently, offers views that few humans have ever witnessed. The sense of achievement reaching this altitude on a motorcycle is indescribable. I felt literally on the top of the world and even knowing that the Everest is much higher than this, the feeling for me was like conquering the high peak.
The return journey to Hanle was done via another mountain pass, called the Photi Là Pass. I remember that it saved us all the difficult way in the desert, and when we finished riding downhill, we were already a single number of kilometers from Hanle. One important thing I can say is that, putting the two mountain passes together, we did approximately 400 switchbacks up and down the passes that day. It was a beautiful ride, but an exhausting one.
NOTE: The map above is as accurate as I could approximate with freehand drawing. Unfortunately, due to the extense riding in the desert, with no road, neither Google Maps, Bing Maps nor Here Maps could draw for me an exact path.
The landscape at this altitude is truly lunar-like, with oxygen levels at just 50% of sea level. The pass, opened to civilian traffic recently, offers views that few humans have ever witnessed. The sense of achievement reaching this altitude on a motorcycle is indescribable. I felt literally on the top of the world and even knowing that the Everest is much higher than this, the feeling for me was like conquering the high peak.
The return journey to Hanle was done via another mountain pass, called the Photi Là Pass. I remember that it saved us all the difficult way in the desert, and when we finished riding downhill, we were already a single number of kilometers from Hanle. One important thing I can say is that, putting the two mountain passes together, we did approximately 400 switchbacks up and down the passes that day. It was a beautiful ride, but an exhausting one.
Day 13 – 28/07/2025: Hanle to Leh (255 km, 8-9 hours)
(our map is the same as in the eleventh day, only the direction is opposite)
The final day retraced our route through the Changtang Valley back to Leh. This was an opportunity to see that when you look at the same mountains from the opposite direction, you get a completely different picture. Like riding a new road that we hadn’t ridden before.
When Ride the Himalayas plan these expeditions, they think until the last detail. One of these details is the case we get stuck by landslides and the delay propagates until a point that we can’t get back to the last day in time and are in danger of loosing our flights back. They solve this by leaving a buffer day at the end, in Leh, before our farewell dinner.
We did not use the buffer day, and at some point, our guides were considering adding an additional day in our way to Leh to visit a big lake in the region. At the end, reports of bad weather and landslides made them change their minds and travel directly to Leh through the main road, in order to avoid a situation in which people would miss their flights home.
As we approached Leh, the desertic views of Hanle and the high areas stayed behind, and we began seeing more vegetation and population. It is interesting to see as, even inside the high Himalayas, nature changes according to the altitude of the place and the quality of the air around.
Arriving in Leh completed an epic 13-day journey covering over 1,700 kilometers through some of the world's most challenging and beautiful terrain. We'd conquered the world's highest motorable pass, experienced diverse cultures, and pushed both ourselves and our motorcycles to their limits.
When Ride the Himalayas plan these expeditions, they think until the last detail. One of these details is the case we get stuck by landslides and the delay propagates until a point that we can’t get back to the last day in time and are in danger of loosing our flights back. They solve this by leaving a buffer day at the end, in Leh, before our farewell dinner.
We did not use the buffer day, and at some point, our guides were considering adding an additional day in our way to Leh to visit a big lake in the region. At the end, reports of bad weather and landslides made them change their minds and travel directly to Leh through the main road, in order to avoid a situation in which people would miss their flights home.
As we approached Leh, the desertic views of Hanle and the high areas stayed behind, and we began seeing more vegetation and population. It is interesting to see as, even inside the high Himalayas, nature changes according to the altitude of the place and the quality of the air around.
Arriving in Leh completed an epic 13-day journey covering over 1,700 kilometers through some of the world's most challenging and beautiful terrain. We'd conquered the world's highest motorable pass, experienced diverse cultures, and pushed both ourselves and our motorcycles to their limits.
Day 14 – 29/07/2025: Buffer Day in Leh and Farewell Meeting
We used the buffer day to go down again to Leh, which we already know, look for some gifts to take home, and, as expected, some gifts for ourselves as well. I bought myself a shirt commemorating the Umling La conquer, and a shirt for my grandson, featuring the Yak, a local kind of bull or cow. Additionally, some stickers of the Ladakh area for the bike at home.
At the end of the day, at 18:30, we had our Farewell Dinner. At the dinner, Rahul Yadav, Ride the Himalayas CEO, told us all the story of Ride the Himalayas, and how the company has grown from 1 ride per year in 2015 to 13 rides per year in 2025. He also told us about the plans for the future, and this included two new tours: Ride Mongolia and Ride Vietnam. And as the cherry at the top of the cream cake, a courageous plan: promoting in 2027 a ride of 72 days from Delhi to London, passing through 18 countries on the way.
They also gave us a set of presents: a beautiful winter jacket with the tour logo and name, another dry-fit shirt with a different design and the trophy of the tour: the screen of the Royal Enfield Himalayan containing the sticker that identified the bike with our name.
We used the buffer day to go down again to Leh, which we already know, look for some gifts to take home, and, as expected, some gifts for ourselves as well. I bought myself a shirt commemorating the Umling La conquer, and a shirt for my grandson, featuring the Yak, a local kind of bull or cow. Additionally, some stickers of the Ladakh area for the bike at home.
At the end of the day, at 18:30, we had our Farewell Dinner. At the dinner, Rahul Yadav, Ride the Himalayas CEO, told us all the story of Ride the Himalayas, and how the company has grown from 1 ride per year in 2015 to 13 rides per year in 2025. He also told us about the plans for the future, and this included two new tours: Ride Mongolia and Ride Vietnam. And as the cherry at the top of the cream cake, a courageous plan: promoting in 2027 a ride of 72 days from Delhi to London, passing through 18 countries on the way.
They also gave us a set of presents: a beautiful winter jacket with the tour logo and name, another dry-fit shirt with a different design and the trophy of the tour: the screen of the Royal Enfield Himalayan containing the sticker that identified the bike with our name.
Conclusions
Aspect #1: the Himalayas
The Manali to Umling La motorcycle journey represents the pinnacle of high-altitude adventure riding. It's a test of endurance, skill, and determination that rewards us with experiences and memories that will definitely last a lifetime. The combination of challenging terrain, rich cultural encounters, and the ultimate achievement of reaching the world's highest motorable pass makes this journey truly epic.
This adventure changes you - not just as a rider, but as a person. The mountains teach humility, the monasteries provide spiritual insights, and the achievement of reaching Umling La creates an unshakeable confidence. For those brave enough to attempt it, this journey represents the ultimate motorcycle adventure on Earth.
The ride was for me like a 14-day meditation session over two wheels. Near the immensity of these mountains, one understands how little he is in comparison to the world we live in. It is a lesson in humility. The scenery is of a strong impact on the soul. It makes you change. I am sure that I will never be the same.
The mountains call us, but they demand respect, preparation, and an unwavering commitment to safety. Riding responsibly, the Himalayas will reward you with experiences beyond imagination.
Aspect #2: Riding Off-road
I’ve never considered myself an offroad rider. Maximum offroad I have done in my life was some 1-2 Km of trail in a road trip.
Well, I can say that I am an offroad rider today, at the end of this trip. I know how to ride in the most adverse situations, on every kind of terrain: trail, dust, sand, mud, water (crossing rivers) – just bring it to me. I have learnt from very experienced people, not only the staff of Ride the Himalayas, but also my colleagues on the group, who were, with a few exceptions, very experienced offroad riders who gave me good advice.
This doesn’t mean that from now on I will only ride offroad – just the opposite, I will probably be back to my regular road trips with my beloved BMW R1250RT and my even more beloved wife. But for my knowledge as a motorcyclist, and also for my self-confidence as such, going into this trip and being able to finish it was a very important thing.
Aspect #3: The group
Being in a good group is something very important in such a trip. And taking a group of 18 people that come from different cultures, speak different languages, and do different kinds of riding, to make them a homogeneous group, is not an easy task.
Luckily, the July 14th group of Ride the Himalayas was all that I could expect from an excellent group. Already from the 2nd or 3rd day of the trip, we were all brothers and sisters. No fights, no discussions, only good laughs.
I have made some friends in this trip that will be friends for life. I really hope that I will still have the chance to meet some of them in the years I have left, either in their own countries, or for a ride together here in Israel. And I feel blessed that I can feel like this for the people that shared this experience with me.
Aspect #4: Ride the Himalayas – the company
I wrote a review to their Facebook page in which I say: “saying that these guys are extremely professional is not enough and not fair with them – they have found the right combination of being extremely professional and working from the deep of their heart.”
This is exact! The company has made us feel as part of the family during all the trip, already from day one. The owner of the business travelled with us all the way. The leader, the marshal, the sweeper, the photographers, they were like brothers to us during the whole trip. It is very difficult to feel like this for a company that is, all-in-all, guiding you on a ride.
When I took this trip, the thing that I was most afraid was that we would be caught in that traditional combination, in which your guides are more interested to take you to where you can buy things and they can get a commission, than to really show you something. Looking back, it was exactly the opposite – they did not let us spend a dollar anywhere along the way. Everything was handled by them without expenses to us. The only moments in which we bought things by ourselves were the afternoon in Kaza, the rest day and the buffer day in Leh, in which we went by ourselves to the city, without being accompanied by guides. When they say they take responsibility, they really do.
Aspect #5: Logistics and practical advice
Final Conclusion:
This was a life-changing experience. I have returned from this trip a different person. The experience itself and the friends that I have made there will go with me for life. I can only thank myself that I decided not to be afraid and to give myself the chance to do this. And also, to my wife for all the incentive to do it. I recommend it to all riders that feel they want it and feel they have the strong spirit to overcome any body difficulties.
If you haven't seen it yet, here is the Youtube video that summarizes the whole trip. The video shows what happened, day by day. You can see the scenery, the obstacles, the beauty of the place. 52 minutes of meditation on 2 wheels.
Aspect #1: the Himalayas
The Manali to Umling La motorcycle journey represents the pinnacle of high-altitude adventure riding. It's a test of endurance, skill, and determination that rewards us with experiences and memories that will definitely last a lifetime. The combination of challenging terrain, rich cultural encounters, and the ultimate achievement of reaching the world's highest motorable pass makes this journey truly epic.
This adventure changes you - not just as a rider, but as a person. The mountains teach humility, the monasteries provide spiritual insights, and the achievement of reaching Umling La creates an unshakeable confidence. For those brave enough to attempt it, this journey represents the ultimate motorcycle adventure on Earth.
The ride was for me like a 14-day meditation session over two wheels. Near the immensity of these mountains, one understands how little he is in comparison to the world we live in. It is a lesson in humility. The scenery is of a strong impact on the soul. It makes you change. I am sure that I will never be the same.
The mountains call us, but they demand respect, preparation, and an unwavering commitment to safety. Riding responsibly, the Himalayas will reward you with experiences beyond imagination.
Aspect #2: Riding Off-road
I’ve never considered myself an offroad rider. Maximum offroad I have done in my life was some 1-2 Km of trail in a road trip.
Well, I can say that I am an offroad rider today, at the end of this trip. I know how to ride in the most adverse situations, on every kind of terrain: trail, dust, sand, mud, water (crossing rivers) – just bring it to me. I have learnt from very experienced people, not only the staff of Ride the Himalayas, but also my colleagues on the group, who were, with a few exceptions, very experienced offroad riders who gave me good advice.
This doesn’t mean that from now on I will only ride offroad – just the opposite, I will probably be back to my regular road trips with my beloved BMW R1250RT and my even more beloved wife. But for my knowledge as a motorcyclist, and also for my self-confidence as such, going into this trip and being able to finish it was a very important thing.
Aspect #3: The group
Being in a good group is something very important in such a trip. And taking a group of 18 people that come from different cultures, speak different languages, and do different kinds of riding, to make them a homogeneous group, is not an easy task.
Luckily, the July 14th group of Ride the Himalayas was all that I could expect from an excellent group. Already from the 2nd or 3rd day of the trip, we were all brothers and sisters. No fights, no discussions, only good laughs.
I have made some friends in this trip that will be friends for life. I really hope that I will still have the chance to meet some of them in the years I have left, either in their own countries, or for a ride together here in Israel. And I feel blessed that I can feel like this for the people that shared this experience with me.
Aspect #4: Ride the Himalayas – the company
I wrote a review to their Facebook page in which I say: “saying that these guys are extremely professional is not enough and not fair with them – they have found the right combination of being extremely professional and working from the deep of their heart.”
This is exact! The company has made us feel as part of the family during all the trip, already from day one. The owner of the business travelled with us all the way. The leader, the marshal, the sweeper, the photographers, they were like brothers to us during the whole trip. It is very difficult to feel like this for a company that is, all-in-all, guiding you on a ride.
When I took this trip, the thing that I was most afraid was that we would be caught in that traditional combination, in which your guides are more interested to take you to where you can buy things and they can get a commission, than to really show you something. Looking back, it was exactly the opposite – they did not let us spend a dollar anywhere along the way. Everything was handled by them without expenses to us. The only moments in which we bought things by ourselves were the afternoon in Kaza, the rest day and the buffer day in Leh, in which we went by ourselves to the city, without being accompanied by guides. When they say they take responsibility, they really do.
Aspect #5: Logistics and practical advice
- Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 – this bike is like a goat, in all meanings of the word. On one side, whatever way you give it, it will take it and succeed in it. On the other hand, if you have ever tried to ride a goat, you will probably know: it is hard, and it jumps a lot. Anyway, I enjoyed the bike very much. I don’t think that I would buy one to have at home as my main bike, but for the purpose of this tour this bike was PERFECT! I learned to love it.
- Gel-padded underpants – The guys who were experienced in offroad brought them. Idiots like me that had no idea, didn’t. I wish I had them, they would have saved me a lot of suffering from the seat of those bikes.
- Water consumption – it is very important to keep hydrated during the trip. It helps avoid altitude sickness. The staff at Ride the Himalayas every day distributed bottles of water (during all the day), and also electrolytes to put in the water (they also help with the altitude). However, it is not comfortable to take the water in a bag on the bike and drink only in the stops. If drinking is important to you (and it should be), take one of those water backpacks with a rubber straw, which will allow you to drink while you ride.
- Battery packs are very important for the days in which there is no electricity in the camp or hotel, so take at least two. I’ve taken 3, and that was enough for me.
- The most painful experience for me in the whole thing was flying with Ethiopian Airlines. This flight was worth for 3 flights: the first, the last, and one more than I should have flown. Let me explain: I have never seen a company which, at the same time, has such excellent quality flights and such an incompetent back-office and logistics. I will tell the whole story in the next sub-items:
- On my trip to India: one day before the trip, I discover that the flight which was supposed to be at 10:00 AM appears at the Ethiopian Airlines at 07:30 AM. Nobody contacted me. So I woke up at 03:30 AM and took a cab to the airport, just to discover there that this was a mistake of the airline, and the flight is neither at 10:00 nor at 07:30, but at 09:00. Lost 3 hours of sleep because of this.
- On my return trip: I arrive to the airport in Delhi with my ticket for ET689 to Addis Ababa at 09:35 and for ET414 from Addis Ababa to Tel Aviv at 16:35. Upon my arrival, the lady in the counter gives me a hotel voucher. I explain that I don’t need a hotel voucher because my flight leaves two hours afterthe arrival of ET 689. The agent tells me that my flight has been cancelled and I am scheduled for ET 418 that leaves only at 10:35 of the next day. I explain to them that I have to be in TLV before 10:00 on the next day, because I have a event (my father’s 90th birthday) in which I have to be present. She says that there is another flight at 02:20 in the morning, but that she is not managing to put me in this flight – and even shows me in the computer. I tell her to check me and my bag in only until Addis Ababa so that I can solve this there. Arriving in Addis Ababa, I turn to the Service Counter of Ethiopian Airlines. There, the lady tells me that my original flight was rescheduled (advanced) from 16:35 to 03:00 in the previous night. Nobody contacted me to tell me that, but when I left Delhi I had already lost my continuation flight. I explain to her that I need to be before 10:00 in TLV, and request that she puts me on the flight of 02:20. She says that flight does not exist. After 45 minutes of discussion, in which I show her the print-screen from the computer in Delhi, I request to talk to her supervisor. The supervisor comes, she explains to him the problem, he looks at my ticket, and asks “Nobody contacted you?”, for what I answer “No”. Then he says that it is their mistake and they assume the responsibility, and “tells me” that they have a flight at 02:20 that they can place me in... “But that’s exactly what I’ve been asking from her in the last 45 minutes and she says the flight doesn’t exist!”, I say to him, and his answer surprised me even more: “Don’t be mad at her, this flight is overbooked and she cannot tell about it without my authorization.” – he authorizes her and she puts me in the flight that I wanted, probably instead of some other traveller that had not checked in until then.
- But the trouble doesn’t end there: I get to TLV and my luggage hasn’t arrived. The crew at Ben Gurion airport takes the details of the luggage – which at the end arrives almost 48 hours later.
Final Conclusion:
This was a life-changing experience. I have returned from this trip a different person. The experience itself and the friends that I have made there will go with me for life. I can only thank myself that I decided not to be afraid and to give myself the chance to do this. And also, to my wife for all the incentive to do it. I recommend it to all riders that feel they want it and feel they have the strong spirit to overcome any body difficulties.
If you haven't seen it yet, here is the Youtube video that summarizes the whole trip. The video shows what happened, day by day. You can see the scenery, the obstacles, the beauty of the place. 52 minutes of meditation on 2 wheels.
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